Sunday, July 6, 2008

The Grand Tour

180 miles into the day I round a corner on Highway 1. The cobalt blue waves of the Pacific Ocean crash into the cliffs outside of Malibu. I’m riding amazingly well considering the length of the day. The weather couldn’t be more perfect. A flock of herons fly overhead. I break out in an ear-to-ear grin. What a perfect way to celebrate the one year anniversary of my arrival in Boston.

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Getting here wasn’t such an easy path. It’s been a year of challenges since finishing my cross-country ride – Being evicted from our house, changing careers, our daughter moving to Japan, and probably most relevant to this particular story, a sometimes overwhelming sense of ennui after returning from Boston. After doing something like riding across the country I found it tough to get motivated to do a simple Saturday ride. Nothing felt terribly interesting. So I slept in on Saturdays, didn’t really look at my bike for about 4 months, and sat around getting fat. I put on almost 15 pounds in 4 months.

As has happened to me several times in the past, I looked in the mirror one morning and said “oh, Hell no”. Something had to change, so I started thinking up new ways to get motivated. Eventually I settled on three goals for 2008: bench pressing my weight, getting my golf handicap under 10, and doing at least one double century. The combination of those goals was enough to get me out of bed, off to the gym and back on my bike.

The other two goals are still works-in-progress. As for the double-century, my challenge began to crystallize. I’d always started these things in the dark and finished in the dark. The really strong riders do them entirely in the daylight. So that would be my challenge: to do an entire double century without ever turning on my headlights.

The Grand Tour is an ideal candidate for this. It’s on the last Saturday in June so the days are at their longest. It’s about the easiest double century on the circuit in terms of hill climbing. Tack on the usually glorious weather and the dramatic coastal scenery and it’s my favorite of the doubles. I had a plan.

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What I didn’t have was enough time to put in the requisite miles. After hopping back on the bike I quickly realized that a four- month sabbatical doesn’t improve your fitness. I was almost back to square one as far as conditioning goes. One particularly painful training ride in the Morgan Territory made me question whether this was even possible. Friends would tell me that a 200-mile ride would be no big deal after riding across the country. I knew better. There’s a big difference between riding 85 miles in a day and riding 200 miles in a day.

By the time I left for L.A. I’d finished one century ride (over 2 months ago), one ride in the 85 mile range, and a bunch in 70 mile range. I’d also taken several weekends completely off. Given the realities of the time I had available I made a conscious decision to focus on hill training. The rides were shorter than I wanted, but also tougher than normal. Would quality training make up for a lack of quantity training?

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I got to the Malibu Event Center about 30 minutes before the sun came up. After registering and prepping the bike I had to sit around for awhile waiting for the sun to come up. I rolled out of the parking lot at first light. I could see the road, but I was really hoping there weren’t any potholes. Regardless, the headlights stayed off.

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After a couple of miles the sun rose enough that killer potholes were no longer an issue. The first 16 miles consists of a series of 8 rollers. They warm your legs up pretty quickly and made for an interesting challenge when I rode them again at the end of the day. For the first 25 miles we rode right along the coast on Highway 1. It was a delightful way to start off an event.




I jumped onto a couple of pacelines for the the next section and made really good time. My average speed was over 17 mph for the first 65 miles. A daylight finish was looking good.

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You see some interesting bike jerseys at these events. Double Centuries in particular attract some pretty elite athletes. Most of us want to show off a little, so you see jerseys from some pretty arcane events.

For some reason I always struggle when picking out a jersey. My Triple Crown jersey isn’t going to impress anyone at a Double Century ride. The Triple Crown is pretty much assumed by most of the riders at these events. My choices narrowed to two: The Crossroads jersey that shows the map of the U.S., or the Furnace Creek 508 jersey. I settled on the Furnace Creek jersey, figuring double century riders would appreciate that event. It turned out to be a good choice. I had probably a dozen riders ask me about the event. I was quick to point out that I’d done it as a relay, but the jersey was still good for bragging rights.

The winner of the “jersey bragging rights” contest was a guy wearing a Paris-Brest-Paris jersey. This is possibly the toughest non-professional bike event in the world. It’s only held once every four years. It’s 800 miles long, from Paris to the city of Brest and back. They start as a group and ride until they finish. Sleep is optional and up to the rider to decide on. If you’re interested in a little adventure here’s the link.

http://www.paris-brest-paris.org/EN/

I struck up a conversation with this guy and a few miles down the road he had me almost considering it. I clearly have a defective common-sense gene.

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Most of the middle 100 miles were spent riding with a delightful lady named Dee. These chance encounters are a large part of the enjoyment of these events. She was doing her first solo double century. She’d done 3 previous events as part of a tandem with her boyfriend and was trying it solo today for the first time. She’s raising 3 kids on her own as a single mom, taking over 20 units as a full-time college student, and still has time to train for extreme biking events. Pretty amazing. Here we are having some chicken soup at the Rincon Point rest stop.


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By the time we arrived in Ojai we’d covered 110 miles and finished the two major climbing sections of the day. Even after a prolonged lunch break it was still only 1:30. I actually felt pretty fresh. My legs were holding up well, I hadn’t had any stomach issues, and I was averaging almost 17 mph even with the two climbs. The ride seemed almost easy.

That’s always a danger sign. For the next 30 miles we rode into the teeth of a nasty headwind. We’d struggle to hold 10 mph. Riding down the hill to the ocean was harder than riding up the hill. We turned north once we hit the coast and eventually rode for a brief time on Hwy 101, grinding the whole way.

The rest stop at Rincon Point was much appreciated. It had taken almost 3 full hours to cover 30 miles. Our only breaks had been the occasional stoplight. We were both completely gassed. I no longer was feeling particularly confident. I had 60 miles to cover and about 4 hours of daylight left. Riding 15 mph wouldn’t cut it, since I still had one more rest stop and lots of stoplights riding through Ventura. Time to put the hammer down. How big a hammer I had left was an open question though.

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I get asked quite often why I do this. There are loads of reasons, but here’s one of the main ones: I want to experience life, not just observe it. That distinction came through loud and clear while riding down Highway 1. People in cars were passing by. I’m sure they were enjoying the lovely views, but they were observing them from the quiet of their cars. With air conditioning and radio they may as well have been watching TV.

I was a part of the environment. I could feel the wind in my face. The weather makes me sweat or shiver, and there’s not a great deal I can do about that. When I enjoy the views I’m enjoying the entire experience. It’s very real. I often make a point of not even wearing sunglasses. I don’t want a filter between my perception and the actual world I’m a part of at the moment. When I travel a mile down the road it’s a direct result of my own personal effort. I earn those views. I’m proud of them.

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So I took off from Rincon Point like a bat out of hell. The nasty headwind was now blowing at my back. 20 MPH required almost no pedaling. The Krispy Kreme donut and Pepsi kicked in and I rode like a maniac. I reeled in two different pacelines as I flew down the coast. I looked down at my legs at one point and thought “where the Hell is this coming from?”

After the quickest rest stop of my life (I usually goof off for 15 minutes of so) I was back on the road for the home stretch. I could finally relax. I’d made up enough time in the previous 30 miles that I now didn’t have to worry about a daylight finish. I cruised home with the tailwind assist and just really enjoyed being outdoors on a bike in such a magnificent setting.


Coasting down the last hill into the parking lot I was positively euphoric. I rolled up to my car, came to a stop, and pumped my fists like an idiot. I’d finished just after 7:30, with a full hour of daylight to spare.

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This day had turned out to be one of my all-time favorite days on a bike. Glorious weather, incredible scenery, interesting people, and a new lifetime-first accomplishment (the daylight finish) had combined to create a day that exemplifies what this sport has to offer. It was a very fitting tribute on the one-year anniversary of the completion of my cross-country trip.

I went through a long stretch earlier this year thinking that my days as a serious endurance sport athlete might be over. I just couldn’t imagine finding anything interesting after my moon-shot ride. I’m happy to have re-discovered my motivation. Not every event has to qualify for a lifetime-achievement award. Sometimes they are worth doing just because they are worth doing. This is an event I’m sure I will return to repeatedly. In the meantime I’ve scheduled one more Double Century for this year. I’m back to feeling fit once more, and enjoying my hobby just for its own sake.

The complete movie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPSbC3ET-kI

It's 7 minutes long and took a full year for me to post on the blog, even though it's been finished for 11 months.

Saturday, June 30, 2007

The Eagle Has Landed


This marvelous, epic, challenging, and unimaginably fun adventure has drawn to a close. We rolled onto Revere Beach yesterday, an 18 mile epilogue, full of joy and pride. Maybe a little relief as well. OK, a few tears on top of that.


We couldn't go all the way to the Atlantic and not go for a little swim. I'm in the middle of this picture, forgetting to take my helmet off. The water was warmer than the Pacific but still plenty chilly.


Here is the final group photo with all the riders that made it to Boston. This was a wonderful group of people -- friendly, funny, encouraging, and helpful. We became a family over the last 7 weeks. I've made friendships that I hope to maintain for the rest of my life. Saying goodbye (for now) has proven to be difficult.The bond we made on the open roads of America was unlike anything I've ever experienced. Fighting hailstorms and desert heat and 50 MPH crosswinds brings people together in ways that normal daily life just can't. I cherish the memories I've created with these folks.


My 2-wheeled temptress is now in a cardboard box on her way back home. It seems quite strange that I won't be riding every day. I've grown accustomed to this adventurous lifestyle. But new adventures await. Laurie and I are off for 2 weeks of what most people would consider a "real" vacation, sightseeing in New England.

I'd like to thank all of you who have encouraged my writing. This is the first time I've actually tried to write every day and I've enjoyed it immensely. It's been very rewarding. I plan to continue writing in some capacity. I don't know what form that will take just yet. Figuring that out is a part of my life's journey.

I'll be making another movie with the pictures I took on the second half of the trip. Give me 2-3 weeks to get it all worked out and I'll post it here. I may also make a few more posts over the next weeks as memories come back or thoughts feel the need to express themselves.

Thanks for reading. It's been a blast.

Tom

The Final Google Earth file: http://tomerceg.googlepages.com/bostonma.kmz
Zoom way in on the beach and you can see the actual track the bike made into the ocean!

Thursday, June 28, 2007

one request

I'd like to ask a favor from you. As most of you know, I am using this ride to raise money for a local charity called CARH. There are two links on the right side of the page - one that takes you to the homepage for CARH, and the other takes you to a donation page they have set up for people who would like to contribute.

So here is my request. I'd like you to take a minute and look at the links. If you've enjoyed reading the blog these last 7 weeks, and if the cause seems worthy to you, please make a donation in whatever amount feels comfortable. The contribution is 100% tax deductible, and doesn't offset my costs in any way. Your donation is completely anonymous. I don't know who has donated or how much. The only information I will receive is the total amount raised.

For each of you who have already made a donation, please accept my personal thanks and be assured that your donation is much needed and will be put to good use.

The Penultimate Ride

Amazing new diet plan! Discovered on the backroads of the United States.

Comes with a money-back guarantee.*

For 7 weeks you can eat whatever you want, whenever you want.*

Guaranteed to lose weight and inches!*

This plan has been tried by countless people with verified results. Act Now!

*Must cycle 80 miles a day


The hard work is now complete. We have a leisurely 18 mile spin to the beach tomorrow morning where we will dip our wheels into the Atlantic Ocean. I've ridden Every Freakin (ridable) Inch. Wow, what a feeling.

We didn't have an easy spin to get to Burlington though. 88 miles and 4000 feet of climbing. It wasn't as hot as yesterday, but the humidity was still up there.

We crossed into New Hampshire at the start of the day. Most of the climbing was during our 40 miles in this state. Perhaps the steepest climb of the trip as well. I saw a 13% grade on the Garmin at one point.

After grinding through those hills we crossed into Massachusetts, our final destination. Jim and I rode together all day today. We put some serious effort into today's ride. It wasn't a pleasure cruise. Storm clouds threatened all day long, and were supposed to get worse as the day wore on. In the end we stayed dry all day, but we weren't going to take any chances.


We had our final SAG stop as well, a corn dog and a coke 26 miles from the finish. What great riding food.
After 7 weeks apart, Laurie was waiting for me in the lobby at the end of the ride. She had her own marathon getting here yesterday. After leaving the west coast in the morning she didn't get to the hotel until 4:00 a.m. Delayed flights, re-routed flights, plane running out of fuel, lines at the rental car, etc. A true "Planes, Trains, and Automobiles" type experience. I'm glad she made it though. My life seems complete once more.

18 more miles and I can put on the official t-shirt!

Today's Google Earth file: http://tomerceg.googlepages.com/burlingtonma.kmz

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

New England

This is a ski resort. Ski resorts are typically located at the tops of mountain passes. Guess what we did today?

If you guessed "climb" you'd be correct. Today's ride had over 6000 feet of climbing, the single biggest climbing day of the tour. We also has a bit of a "warming spell", shall we say. I saw a thermometer in Brattleboro that read 100 degrees, and no, that's not a dry heat. The air was warm and sticky at 7:00 a.m. Funny thing about biking in humidity though, you don't notice the heat as much as you might think. I was completely soaked in sweat, but the breeze actually felt pretty cool. Once we stopped riding then we would really notice the heat.

The big challenge is staying hydrated. The volume of perspiration has to be replaced, or else bad things happen. I went through 6 bottles of Gatorade plus a coke, and still bonked when I got to the hotel room.

Here's a picture of Jerry, our 80 year old rider, making his way up to the top of Prospect Mountain. Age is truly a state of mind. He's a daily inspiration to me.


Every uphill has a corresponding downhill. These were great descents, rarely steep enough to be scary, but fast enough to hold 30+ MPH for long periods of time. It makes all the uphill grunting worthwhile.

We crossed into Vermont about 30 miles into the ride. Vermont is actually an old Indian word meaning "Subaru". It has to be. Why else would every 3rd car on the road be one? The state is unbelievably green. And hilly. I think I mentioned that already.

What would a day be without a little adventure. Some fresh tar had been poured in a little seam crack in the asphalt. I went rolling through it in slow motion and managed to coat both tires. After the gravel stuck to the wet tar I now was riding on knobby tires.
A cop saw me stopped by the side of the road and pulled over. He was actually a really nice guy. We chatted about the trip and Vermont and all sorts of stuff. He loaned me his pocket knife so I could scrape off some of the rocks and get back on the road. When I got back to the hotel, and finished my bonk session, I had another 30 minutes of work to get the rest of the tar off the tires.


Family members are starting to show up at the hotel. We have several spouses here in Brattleboro. Ray's cycling club, the Cyclonauts, rode out and met him at the 2nd SAG today. and I joined them for lunch after the ride. My lovely wife is currently in transit and will be waiting for me at the hotel after tomorrow's ride. Seven weeks is a long time without my best girl. I can't wait to see her.

Today's Google Earth file: http://tomerceg.googlepages.com/brattleboroVT.kmz

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Playing along the Mohawk

Today's Google Earth file: http://tomerceg.googlepages.com/AlbanyNY.kmz


Today's ride followed along the Mohawk River from Syracuse to Albany. Other than the trips through the cities, the ride was a natural delight of trees and water.

With only 69 miles to cover today, a group of us took the opportunity to goof off. We slept in for an extra hour. Terry and I took a look at an 18th century fort. I took extra pictures. We actually stopped for a sit-down lunch at an Irish pub in Scotia.


The highlight of the day was a completely unscheduled swimming stop. Terry scouted out a swimming hole in the Mohawk River, and Ray, Terry and I took a little dip. Today was another hot one, humid with a high temperature of 92 degrees. The cool water got us ready to finish off the ride.

What made the detour extra cool was that it was completely unscheduled. Terry just decided that swimming in the river was a good idea, so he scouted out a spot. It felt a little like breaking the rules, although there weren't any "no swimming" signs.


I've been meaning to spend some time writing about some of my fellow riders. Everyone has a story to tell, but there's only so much time I can spend on the blog. One group in partcular deserves mention though.

We have a group of riders affectionately known as The Captain and the Turtles, a little play on the Captain and Tenneile I've been told. From left to right, Jac, Fran (the Captain), Dave, and Richard.

These are the riders at the back of the pack. Each day we have a fixed number of miles to ride. The fast riders sometimes get to the hotel before the rooms are even ready. The Turtles works every bit as hard as the fast riders, but they do it for a much longer period of time each day, including more hours in the heat. The day into Wooster last week was just a killer for me. You saw the look on my face at the end of that ride. I looked like a puddle of goo. Richard was out in the 90 degree heat for 2 hours and 20 minutes longer than I was, and finished with a smile on his face. That's completely normal for these folks. They work harder than anyone else out here, and always with smiles on their faces. They're a wonderful group of riders. I'm in awe of their determination and of what they've accomplished on this trip.

Monday, June 25, 2007

Little Falls

Today's Google Earth file: http://tomerceg.googlepages.com/littlefallsNY.kmz

The group seems to sense that our time together is growing shorter. People take a lot more pictures of each other. Meals tend to last a little longer than normal. Some of the intense competitiveness at the front of the pack has diminished. Summer camp still has a few days left to run, and we seem to want it to last as long as possible. One of my friends asked me how I felt about the trip coming to an end. The fact is that I have mixed feelings. I really want to see Laurie, and I have some nagging injuries I want to let heal up. At the same time I don't want the adventure to end.


We had another easy day today, although our sense of "easy" has certainly changed since the trip began. I covered 78 miles and finished before 12:30 p.m. The weather was wonderful once again, but it got hot towards the end of the day. We went walk-about in Little Falls after the ride and it was East-Coast hot and humid. More of that expected for tomorrow.

I took advantage of the more relaxed attitude today. I rode with the fast kids for the first 30 miles. I let them do all the work and then ran over to the van at the SAG stop and signed in first. I know it's cheesy, and I don't actually care who gets anywhere first, but I figured it would be my only opportunity to add my John Hancock to a blank sign-in sheet. Notice the #1 next to my name.


Little Falls is an interesting town with some colorful history. There is an amazing lock on the canal that runs alongside the Mohawk river. It's one of the largest river locks in the world. This photo shows a boat that had been at the watermark just a few minutes earlier. It's quite an impressive operation to watch. The volume of water pouring out of the gates is amazing. I have a series of photos in the Google Earth file that show how it operates. Pretty cool stuff.


The town itself used to be a major industrial center. Factories produced all sorts of things, including bicycles interestingly enough. That's all gone now. A lot of the riverside buildings have been converted into lofts. We see a lot of towns out here that have seen better days, but the scenery through all of upstate New York has been wonderful, and the roads continue to be a delight to ride on.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Navigatin' the Erie Canal

Today was a rarity -- A vacation day of riding. We only had 68 miles to cover, so we got an extra hour of sleep. The hotel wasn't going to be ready until 2:00, so there was absolutely no reason to rush.

I made the most of it. I made an unscheduled stop at Seneca Lake, another one of the Finger Lakes. This area of New York is really beautiful. I'd never heard of the Finger Lakes, but apparently it's well known out here. I can see why it's a popular summertime destination.

A group of us made a stop at the Camillus Landing along the former Erie Canal. They were closed when we showed up, but Terry shook the door until someone opened up for us. We ended up staying there for an hour, and then hopped on a $3 boat tour that took us along a restored section of the canal. We learned all about the history of the canal. I found out what an aqueduct does. Pretty interesting.


Terry apparently didn't find it quite as interesting as I did.


After dinner tonight I walked down to a local watering hole and just had a beer by myself. Being back in the "real world" without anyone associated with the trip and with no discussions of biking was a little disorienting. There is an actual world outside of our bike tour. I tend to forget that. For good or bad, that world draws closer each day.

Today's Google Earth file: http://tomerceg.googlepages.com/SyracuseNY.kmz

Saturday, June 23, 2007

3000 miles


Three...Thousand...Miles...

I have to say, that's a BIG number. Like a lot of things in life, numbers like that happen from doing the right thing day after day. I'm really proud of this group of riders. We've accomplished something pretty amazing. I'm feeling some of the effects of that mileage (a twang in my hamstring, numbness in my fingers, a consistent cramp in my shoulder, blah, blah, blah...), but it'll take a tornado inside a hurricane to keep me from making it all the way.

This was the last high mileage day of the trip. I covered 97 miles today, with 4000 feet of climbing, and averaged over 17 MPH. We had a delightful wind at our backs most of the day. I am SUCH a strong rider when the wind is at my back. I RULE! Of course when the wind doesn't cooperate, or doesn't blow at all, reality comes back and slaps me in the face.

I had a nice surprise waiting for me at the second SAG stop in Avon. I pulled in and saw this gentleman wearing a Penfield Fire Department shirt. I said, "hey, I have a good friend who used to live in Penfield". He replied "that's my son Tim". Tim Reynolds is the guy who is responsible for figuring out all the Google Earth magic, and a friend of mine for the last 19 years. His Dad George lives in Penfield, the purported "center" of the universe, or so Tim has told me about a thousand times. George drove down here just to say hi and wish me well. Thanks George!


This section of New York is known as the "Finger Lakes". If you look at the Google Earth file you'll see why. We're staying right across from Lake Canadaugia. It's really a beautiful region. So far I have to give New York credit. They have the best roads in the nation. No other state is even close, at least with the roads we've been on so far.


Today's Google Earth file: http://tomerceg.googlepages.com/CanandaugiaNY.kmz